🔗 Share this article

When curating a ranking of London’s finest dining spots, one might foresee familiar award-winning names. Yet, nestled prominently among these culinary heavyweights is a simple salonu situated in a outlying part of northern London.

A Surprise Accolade

This small Turkish spot, focusing in the culinary delights of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been crowned the 4th best restaurant in the capital by a respected food magazine. The recognition has left the proprietors utterly surprised.

“I’m totally astonished,” states a owner’s son, pointing to his family’s hard graft that resulted in their small restaurant achieving such a prominent ranking on a notable 99-strong list.

A Charm of Modesty

The compact space, which started as a simple cafe before its change into a buzzing destination, has retained much of its original charm. It accommodates just over 20 people and, except for the vibrant live cooking display, the layout remains largely unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate space,” says the owner.

The Namesake Creation: Tantuni

In the end, it is focused on the food, and this restaurant more than excels. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a straightforward joy. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to preserve a succulent consistency.

It is then added into a massive pan with seasonings and oil, which are added in slowly. Once the flavourful mixture starts to simmer, freshly made lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is placed on top to take in all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley are placed before the savoury meat is rolled tightly inside.

The wrap is typically consumed with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a strong punch of taste, with soft hints of sumac, bold onions and rich, paprika-red oil pulling it all in harmony.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The leading food critic labelled this dish “one of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe is a delight. It is soaked in a more modest amount of syrup than usual, imparting it a deeper, more aromatic and less sickly profile.

Outranking the Stars

Remarkably, this modest restaurant has been placed higher than several celebrated three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself near the summit of the list, trailing other esteemed dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave the restaurant satisfied for below £25, equivalent experiences at high-end establishments can cost many times that amount.

The Ethos of Hospitality

The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants listed and is located well outside the city’s central zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and best food but I do not agree with that,” explains the owner.

“I believe what is most important is friendliness, kindness and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The philosophy is supported by the list’s curator, who suggested that if he were in a role of authority, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London visit this restaurant as a masterclass, to teach them the pitfalls of overthinking, and to reveal what is possible if you do just one – or three – things to their utmost best”.

A Journey of Perseverance

Unlike many chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food didn’t apprentice at fancy establishments. “I am really happy of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

Numerous restaurants require years to establish themselves, but this one first started seven years ago. Its success is owing to relentless, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum was really tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. All of it is prepared manually; she would do all of this. She is a single mother and she managed a social life but her friends would visit to support her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. All of these roles forged her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he reflects.

An Recognition for the Community

The restaurant’s recognition is set to have meaning outside its own premises. “In my opinion numerous people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” says the owner, pointing out the broader significance of this culinary triumph.